Gurez: Land Of The Dard-Shins
Walter Lawrence, an author and once the British Settlement Commissioner of Kashmir, who visited Gurez in 1894, had called the valley “the most beautiful of Kashmir’s Margs… with mountain scraps of indescribable grandeur”.
127 Kms from Srinagar, the valley of Gurez lies in a peaceful, remote corner in the north of Kashmir. Dotted with quaint villages along the scenic Kishanganga river, this offbeat destination is an unexplored slice of heaven. It is geographically isolated from the rest of the world and is surrounded by exceptional natural beauty. From high mountain ranges to unspoiled forests to innumerable Pristine lakes (Patalwan Lakes Trek or the Gurez Valley Trek), this is an unmapped paradise. It is also the homeland and last sanctuary for the Dardic people in India.
Historically, Gurez was part of ancient Dardistan. It fell along the old Silk Route, which connected the Kashmir Valley with Gilgit-Baltistan before continuing further to the Kashgar region of China. The local inhabitants are from the ethnic Dard-Shin tribe. Different from Kashmiri, they speak in Shina, a once-thriving language that is slowly vanishing. They have their ancestral connection with the people of Gilgit-Baltistan region, now in Pakistan. Their styles of dress, traditions, customs and cultural identity is similar to their kinsmen located on the other side of LoC.
Today, the last major remnants of this unique ethnic group can be found only in Gurez, Tulail and Bagtore areas, coexisting happily and peacefully with the Indian Army stationed here. This is one rare nook of Kashmir where the Indian Army is on very good terms with the local population, always providing much-needed assistance with medical and other emergencies, especially in the harsh winter months.
On this curated Gurez Valley Tour, we explore a secluded paradise nestled away in one of the most unexplored regions of the Kashmir valley. The trip helps us unravel the Dardic people’s history, culture and heritage, offering us all a fascinating glimpse into the lives of an ancient mountain tribe.
The Formidable Habba Khatoon Peak
The mountain of Habba Khatoon is the star of Gurez, standing tall and welcoming all the visitors here. It is a graceful, pyramid-shaped peak that rises high over the village of Dawar, overlooking its vast green expanse. A visual of the lazily flowing Kishanganga against the backdrop of this towering giant is one of the most spectacular and memorable sights here.
The rocky mountain looks amazingly beautiful in the evening when the sun shines on its bare face from the opposite side. In the morning, the rising sun behind it makes the mountain even more grand, bringing a mystical touch to this awe-inspiring attraction.
Apart from its natural grandeur, the mountain is also significant particularly because of its name. Habba Khatoon in Gurez valley is named after the 16th century Kashmiri poetess and the legendary peasant-queen. One of the greatest poets of Kashmir, she once composed poems and songs about loss and separation after the death of her husband and is now fondly remembered as the ‘Nightingale of Kashmir’. An iconic figure in Kashmiri literary and medieval history, Habba Khatoon’s ballads are sung in the valley even today. The mountain gem of Gurez stands tall as a grand symbol of the poet’s greatness.
Hamlets Of The Tulail Valley
Tulail Valley is one of the remotest regions of Jammu and Kashmir located up north of the territory, beyond the Gurez valley. Parallel to the Line of Control, as we travel further up the Dawar township, we enter the Tulail area crossing multiple Army checkpoints. This is a highly restricted area requiring special permissions due to its close proximity to the Border line.
Driving along the Kishanganga river, here we discover an extraordinary land plucked straight out of a folktale. The captivating natural beauty of this unspoilt region is a unique blend between the stark barrenness of Ladakh and lush greenery of Kashmir. The sweet mix of both terrains conjures up exceptional sceneries at every turn.